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Title: Surf hydrodynamics in front of collapsing coastal dunes
Author: Sancho, F.
Abreu, T.
D’Alessandro, F.
Tomasicchio, G. R.
Silva, P. A.
Keywords: Bed shear stress
Velocity skewness
Velocity asymmetry
Non-linear waves
Issue Date: 2011
Publisher: Coastal Education and Research Foundation
Abstract: The hydrodynamics of the surf zone in front of collapsing coastal dunes are examined. The data was gathered during the HYDRALAB-III funded Transnational Access experiment performed at the CIEM large-scale wave flume. Here, it is presented results of the cross-shore evolution of several flow parameters at four positions. Despiked and band-pass filtered ADV velocity data were used to enable a focus on only the short-wave component. As the waves approach the shore they reduce their (velocity) skewness, but increase their vertical asymmetry. Despite the non-negligible wave reflection, the theoretical wave model of Abreu et al. (2010) was applied to successfully reproduce the measured velocities. Lastly, an estimate of the bed shear stress exerted by the shortwave components is presented.
Peer review: yes
ISSN: 0749-0208
Appears in Collections:CESAM - Artigos
DFis - Artigos

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